Srinagar - Shikaara Diaries
Srinagar is less urban than most cities. It is rather a collection of several pockets of culture. The people, the culture, the food—everything about the city is rural, and there lies the charm of Srinagar.
Shikaaras
Shikaaras meant for tourists are painted in bright yellow with flourishes in different colours. Decorated Shikaaras look like Kashmiri brides. There is a utility variety (which is not that well decorated, though) that the locals use, especially those living on the banks of the lake in the far corners.
Market
Srinagar's vegetable market is on a lake. Srinagar is not on Dal Lake; instead, Dal Lake is a part of Srinagar. There's a lot of terra firma in Srinagar, yet the market is on a lake. The reason is that the vegetable farms are on the lake.
Farmers get their produce on their boats early in the morning and sell what they can before the sun rises, after which buyers are gone. German turnips, Gourds, Tomatoes, Collard greens, and egg plants are common in September.
Tourists are an attraction for the vendors - not the other way around, because few tourists go there.
After the buyers are gone, it is time to socialize.
Or just ponder or just sit and row the boat in quite meditation, watching people go by their own businesses.
Or fix oneself a tobacco laden something but avoid eye contact with the camera at all costs.
Or count your money (rather than your blessings - that's easy for me to say, I get it), worry about how less you are making, tell an elderly gent, be reassured yet choose to let a tourist know about the run of bad luck you are having.
Or check out the tourists, see what they are like, what the photographers like me are up to, be wished 'asalam ailekum', respond, smile and be on one's own way, like this gentle man.
Some elderly gents are more stoic, they may or may not approach, may or may not make eye contact, but they acknowledge your presence with a stoic silence, they linger on for a minute or two and row away.
The whole social dance of acknowledging someone without actually getting too close, smile or not, greet or not, just give them their space and move on, this is an elegant social waltz.
I loved it then, loving it more as I write this.
Gulmarg
As you go up the road, you will be greeted by grand old pine trees and orchids lining the forest floor on the either side of the road and that's when you know what's in store. Everything is grand, awe-inspiring. Views, sizes of meadows, mountains...everything is king size, and striking. If you a silent type, you will definitely make sounds of delight here, you can't hide it.
Gulmarg is the definition of beautiful mountain views, period.
Take the 'Goldola' (ropeway) ride up the mountain and you are shoulder to shoulder to the Goriwan glacier. Usually you get to see a glacier from a great distance, usually from the foot of the glacier. But here, it is like you are sitting on a helicopter, watching the glacier from high altitude. It is unbelievable sight, I was speechless.
